I’ve updated the original with my latest tweaks, and there’s still time to make this for Christmas.
I was quite surprised when I first found a recipe in one of Gary Rhodes’ books for Worcestershire Sauce, given that this is supposed to be one of world’s best kept secrets, the recipe only discussed by ‘those who know’ in the middle of a field. Anyway I made it as per Gary’s instructions for several years and it always went down very well with people who received it as a Christmas present – very good for cheese on toast apparently, as any Worcestershire Sauce worthy of the name should be. And then the there was the bombshell in 2009 of a Lee and Perrins employee apparently finding the original recipe in a skip! So much for the field, but frankly little we couldn’t have already deduced from the label, which brings me back to Mr Rhodes. Why, in his recipe, did he ignore so much of what the bottle already tells us about its contents? He includes no molasses or tamarind. I have added them back in, along with one or two touches of my own.
So whilst I don’t think Lea and Perrins should shut up shop just yet, if you fancy spicing up Christmas for your nearest and dearest you’ve still got time.
Should make a little over 1 litre
- 1 litre malt vinegar
- 3 shallots, finely chopped
- 5 cloves of garlic, crushed
- 1 tbsp black treacle
- 50g salted anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped
- 20g dried porcini mushrooms
- 1 thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and chopped
- 1 birds-eye chilli, deseeded
- 1 tbsp muscovado sugar
- 3 tbsps soy sauce
- 2 tsps tamarind paste
- 10 cloves
- 4 cardamom pods, bruised with the back of a knife
- 1 quarter tsp cinnamon and a piece of cinnamon or cassia bark
- 1 third of a nutmeg [grated] and few blades of mace
- 1 tbsp black peppercorns
- 1 tbsp good quality fish sauce [such as ‘Three Crabs’ brand]*
Place the vinegar, shallots and garlic into a pan and slowly bring to a simmer. Dribble in the treacle and stir well to dissolve, then allow to tremble gently for twenty minutes or so. Add all the other ingredients and stir well then cook for a couple of minutes more. Take off the heat and allow to cool slightly as you warm a large glass jar in a low oven. Pour the warm mixture into the warmed jar and seal. This now needs to sit for a week, ten days, or even a fortnight, and should be shaken each time you pass the jar. Mine sits on the washing machine so that the spin cycle can shake it for me when I’m out.
When ready strain through a fine sieve, heat until just below simmering for two minutes, and when still warm decant into heated sterilised bottles. Never pour hot liquids into cold glass bottles, or cold liquids into hot ones – they should both be quite warm. Then seal and keep somewhere cool and out of direct sunlight until needed. There will be some sediment and you’ll need to shake the bottle before each use. I’d also keep the bottle in the fridge once opened.
Now then, who’s for cheese on toast and a Bloody Mary?
* If you saw my piece on Uyen Luu’s cooking class you’ll know about my conversion to proper, good quality fish sauce, and I wouldn’t dream of using cheap nam pla here.
Posted in Christmas, Gift, Pescatarian, Recipe
Tagged anchovy, black pepper, black treacle, Bloody Mary, cardamom, cheese on toast, chilli, Christmas, Christmas food, cinnamon, cloves, colatura di alici, condiment, garlic, Gary Rhodes, ginger, homemade, homemade Worcestershire Sauce, Lea and Perrins, mace, malt vinegar, nutmeg, porcini, recipe, shallot, soy sauce, tamarind, treacle, vinegar, Worcester Sauce, Worcestershire Sauce
You’ve still time to make this for Valentine’s Day and give your loved one a hearty breakfast! [sorry, had to get that one out of the way]
A couple of years ago I saw some marmalade with heart-shaped peel pieces advertised in the run up to Valentine’s Day. It was only being sold in Fortnum and Mason’s so the schlep to the shops was a labour of love in itself, though it turns out this was as nothing when compared to making your own! But of course nothing says “I love you” quite like giving of your time, blood, sweat and tears. And as January and February make up the brief Seville orange season the timing is perfect for the feast of Saint Valentine.
Marmalade making has a bit of a reputation as a dark art where the magical mystery of the bitter orange’s own pectin provides the set, and timing and temperature are crucial components. Perhaps this is why for several years I’ve stocked up on Sevilles and then watched them shrivel before they could be preserved for posterity. Well not this year!
You’ll find any number of recipes online, I opted for that of baking guru Dan Lepard which you can find here. I didn’t think my oranges were providing enough juice for the amount of peel, so I juiced the same quantity again, but then used their peel too so I had the same ratio but double the quantity! When it came to cooking though I didn’t want to use too much water and ended up juicing a few more, and the result is certainly intensely orangey with a good balance of bitter and sweet. The main thing to get right seemingly is the liquid to sugar ratio [Dan gives detailed instructions], and to save every pectin-rich pip.
To make this Valentine’s version follow Dan’s recipe and these additional notes…
- Equip yourself with a small heart-shaped cutter which you can find in the sugar crafts and baking section of your local cook shop.
- Cut the heart shapes from the peel after their overnight soak in the orange juice. I found this worked best cutting with the pith side up, outer skin side down. If using a plain metal cutter [as opposed to a fancy plunger version] press down through a cloth, or you really might risk investing blood and tears!
- Take some time to pare out about half the width of pith from the peel with a small sharp knife [not mentioned in the recipe] if you like a less chunky bite. I kept the papery internal membranes from the oranges too and threw them into the pot wrapped in muslin – I’ve no idea if this does any good but every other bit of the orange seems to have something to add so it seemed a shame not to!
- You will end up with odd bits of off-cuts of peel when you’ve cut out the hearts. Don’t waste these but tie up in muslin too and add to the cooking liquor.
- If you want a very clear jelly strain the juices through muslin before cooking. I didn’t, it’s up to you.
- When the jelly is still hot and quite liquid the peel may congregate towards the surface. For more even distribution wait until the marmalade has cooled and set a little, then stir.
Now all you need is some pretty ribbon for decoration and voila – love in a jar.
Marmalade to spare? Why not try my brioche pudding recipe.
Posted in Fun, Gift, Recipe, Technique, Vegan, Vegetarian [or Vegetarian Version]
Tagged Dan Lepard, love, marmalade, orange, preserve, recipe, Seville orange, Valentine, Valentines Day